In realtà, per titolare la mia recensione, c’è stata tanta indecisione: avevo pensato anche a “CORAGGIO: LA CRISI”, oppure anche qualcosa di peggio, ma mi sono limitato a questo titolo, che riassume perfettamente il trascorrere, da passeggero, 32 ore sulla nave Grimaldi Holding noleggiata ad Anek Lines, impegnata tra Patrasso e Venezia via Igoumenitsa.
La CORAGGIO è stata, sostanzialmente, l’ultimo atto della reggenza Aldo Grimaldi nella compagnia da lui fondata, la Grandi Navi Veloci, della quale era amministratore delegato prima che le sue quote e quelle del fondo Permira passassero ad Investitori Associati, che ha gestito in proprio GNV. Tuttavia la nave non viene ordinata dalla compagnia genovese, ma da Aldo Grimaldi stesso, tramite la propria Grimaldi Holding; Grandi Navi Veloci quindi stipula un contratto di noleggio per tre anni di CORAGGIO e delle successive due navi parte della serie, AUDACIA e TENACIA, ordinate ai Nuovi Cantieri Apuania assieme ad una quarta e ad un’opzione per altre quattro navi, successivamente esercitata. Dalla quarta nave, il progetto viene modificato con l’aggiunta di un maggior numero di cabine, atto a portare la capacità da 600 a 900 passeggeri, modifica in seguito effettuata anche sulle prime tre navi; degli otto ordini, attualmente cinque navi appartengono ancora a Grimaldi Holding (due in noleggio ad ANEK, una in noleggio a DFDS LISCO, una in noleggio a Trasmediterranea Acciona, quindi TENACIA, operata in proprio tra Salerno ed Augusta), mentre le rimanenti tre sono state vendute ad altre compagnie, segnatamente DFDS LISCO e Superfast Ferries (due unità). Entrata in servizio sulla Genova – Tunisi – Malta, ha in seguito lavorato circa su ogni linea della GNV, principalmente la Livorno – Palermo, ma anche le linee per Spagna e Sicilia, prima di tornare, nel 2010, nella disponibilità di Aldo Grimaldi, che, come detto, la sottopone all’aumento della capacità passeggeri presso i cantieri Apuania; la nave viene quindi noleggiata alla Stena Line, per collegare Killingholme e Hoek Van Holland, operazione per la quale viene anche temporaneamente modificata a poppa, con la riduzione delle rampe da due ad una, riallocata in posizione centrale e capace di servire sia il garage principale (chiamato “ponte 3”) che quello superiore (4), al quale si accede tramite rampa fissa; nel 2012, quindi, tornata all’aspetto originale, viene noleggiata per l’estate da SAREMAR, che la impiega nel proprio collegamento Savona Vado – Porto Torres. Nell’autunno 2012 viene quindi noleggiata da ANEK per sostituire le navi ai lavori sulla Venezia – Igoumenitsa – Patrasso, noleggio poi esteso in durata ad un anno; quindi, finito il noleggio alla compagnia greca, è già previsto che venga noleggiata a DFDS per cinque anni.
Saliamo a bordo: la nave venne definita da Aldo Grimaldi, al momento dell’ordine, come “ferry-cruise”, in opposizione ai “cruise-ferry” che finora caratterizzavano Grandi Navi Veloci; mentre le navi che avevano fatto la storia della compagnia dovevano essere considerate quali navi da crociera con un garage, le nuove dovevano invece essere traghetti con finiture da nave da crociera. Mentre sulle prime, a mio giudizio, poco si può eccepire, sulle seconde si può parlare indubbiamente di ferry, ma di cruise, a mio vedere, c’è solo qualche arredamento elegante, che peraltro, ad onor del vero, è meglio rifinito che su molte altre navi dalle maggiori pretese.
Cominciamo dalla parte “ro” della nave, per arrivare successivamente alla parte “pax”: eccellente, come diversamente non ci si poteva aspettare da una nave concepita da Aldo Grimaldi. Due rampe a poppa per l’accesso: quella di sinistra porta direttamente al garage superiore (ponte 4), può essere usata anche per lo stivaggio di due file di mezzi che, una volta sopra, possono essere stivati sia nella parte coperta anteriore, con aperture laterali, sia nell’ampia porzione scoperta posteriore. Da annotare che sul ponte 4 è anche prevista la possibilità del campeggio a bordo, e quindi tale garage è collegato anche in navigazione alla nave, dalle scale usate anche per l’accesso pax. Sulla parte scoperta del garage superiore si erge anche il fumaiolo, molto elaborato esteticamente per un semplice ro-pax, il quale, nella parte di dritta, funge da riparo per una corsia di mezzi pesanti; da annotare, tuttavia, data la larghezza non abbondante, che il parcheggio degli autoarticolati in tale posizione è tutt’altro che semplice. Al ponte 3, il garage principale, si accede invece tramite la rampa di dritta; tale rampa poi conduce anche all’accesso passeggeri, che consiste in scale mobili, quindi un lungo corridoio fino alle sovrastrutture sul ponte 4, quindi una seconda rampa di scale per il ponte 5, il primo livello pax. Dal garage 3 si accede poi ai due livelli inferiori: il 2, adatto anche ad ospitare semirimorchi, e l’1, adatto alle sole auto. Venendo diretti a parcheggiare qua il proprio mezzo, si incomincia a capire il perché la parola “cruise”, sebbene posposta a “ferry”, sia totalmente abusata: non vi è nessun ascensore che arrivi fin nel ventre della nave, e si deve fare diverse rampe di scale per arrivare a sbucare sul ponte 4, il garage superiore, uscendo da sotto il fumaiolo, e da lì dovendosi poi spostare all’entrata sul lato dritto. Quindi, oltre alla fatica di farsi tre ponti (di cui due ad altezza doppia) di scale ripide coi bagagli, c’è anche il fatto di trovarsi nel bel mezzo di un ponte garage scoperto, che in caso di pioggia sarà anche scivoloso, tra camion che fanno manovra. Decisamente non ci siamo.
Entrati dal ponte 4 nell’ingresso, si arriva quindi al 5, e qua troviamo un altro aspetto stupefacente della nave: infatti, l’ingresso conduce su un corridoio esterno e non verso la reception, come ci si aspetterebbe: direttamente avanti si trova la passeggiata scoperta di dritta, sulla sinistra quindi un corridoio, seppure coperto, dal quale ci si può recare alla passeggiata di sinistra, alle cabine, poste verso poppa, e ai servizi di bordo, posti verso prua. Non mi è chiara, nel dettaglio, quale sia stata la modifica fatta per aumentare la capacità della nave; la mia idea, è che le cabine aggiunte siano appunto il blocco presente tra il corridoio esterno a poppavia della reception e quello alla fine della sovrastruttura, nel quale tra l’altro ero alloggiato, e sarebbe l’unica spiegazione che riuscirei a trovare alla curiosa disposizione del ponte 5, chiamato “Golden Deck”. Entrando comunque verso prua, ci troviamo quindi in un corridoio, dal quale si può accedere sia ai servizi igienici, sulla sinistra, i quali servono anche la sala poltrone (all’estrema sinistra, con ingresso sia sul corridoio di cui parliamo, sia, a poppa, dal corridoio esterno), sia a destra la sala Slot Machines, tuttavia non disponibile sul viaggio da me effettuato. Il passaggio, quindi, si allarga nell’atrio della reception, subito avanti, mentre il resto dell’atrio è diviso in divanetti, poltrone e tavolini posti in disposizione “a salottino”; in un angolo vi è anche l’internet corner, formato da tre posizioni PC. L’atrio è molto gradevole, tuttavia si fatica a comprendere la presenza del salone/salottini senza un bar a servirli. Detto della presenza, sulla sinistra, della sala poltrone, si prosegue verso prua nella metà di sinistra della nave, dato che nella metà di destra si trovano, verosimilmente, cucine e dispense. Subito dopo la sala poltrone si trova il negozio di bordo, non troppo esteso e principalmente dedicato ad abbigliamento, accessori e profumeria; quindi, continuando, si trova l’unico bar di bordo, il “Blue Bar” che, a dispetto del nome, di blu ha solo la moquette; le poltrone ed i divanetti infatti sono di un marrone terracotta, coi classici tavolini “De Jorio” cromati. Nel bar si trova anche uno spazio dedicato al piano, che però non c’è. Andando verso prua, infine, il ponte ritorna fruibile per tutta la sua larghezza, e vi troviamo i servizi di ristorazione: nella parte centrale e dritta c’è la “Cafeteria Mediterranea”, il self service, molto ampio, con quattro finestroni sulla prua; l’area del self service, aggiungerei anche “ovviamente”, considerando le ridotte dimensioni della nave, rimane aperta e fruibile anche durante la chiusura della cucina; aperta, sebbene delimitata e non accessibile per la presenza di catenelle bianche e rosse, l’area del ristorante “Pomodoro”, arredata similmente al resto dell’ambiente bar/cafeteria. Scelta curiosa, quella di delimitarla e chiuderla, visto che nel viaggio da me effettuato il servizio di ristorante a-la-carte non è stato effettuato, né vi poteva essere una logica nella chiusura dovuta, magari, al fatto che i tavoli fossero comunque apparecchiati e pronti. Questa è tutta l’area “entertainment” della nave. A poppa, sul ponte 5, c’è, come detto, un blocco di cabine, a poppa del quale si trova una piccola sezione di ponte aperto, accessibile anche dalle passeggiate laterali, con un limitato numero di sedie e tavolini, e riparato con degli eleganti divisori in cristallo. Il blocco di cabine, diviso tra interne ed esterne, sebbene queste ultime abbiano l’oblò sulla passeggiata, appare in pieno stile GNV, nel bene e nel male. Riguardo la cabina interna nella quale alloggiavo, la 5202, la mia definizione si spiega perfettamente nel fatto che nella cabina si trovino semplicemente quattro letti (due bassi e due richiudibili), bagno con doccia e….basta. Niente tavolino, niente telefono, niente sedia, figuriamoci poi asciugacapelli, tv ed amenità del genere. Per carità, magari utilizzando la CORAGGIO per un viaggio overnight di 7/8 ore, non serve molto di più, ma impegnata su collegamenti di questa lunghezza, anche la mancanza di una sedia in cabina fa molto, visto e considerato che, qualora si volesse, per esempio, lavorare ad un pc, questo non risulta facile, visto che in cabina c’è una presa di corrente ma non la sedia, nei saloni vi sono sedie in abbondanza, ma non le prese di corrente. Tuttavia, non è l’unico appunto da muovere alla cabina della CORAGGIO; l’aria condizionata risulta essere freddissima, decisamente troppo, e manca qualsiasi possibilità sia di regolare la temperatura, sia di chiudere l’afflusso dell’aria (o quantomeno di renderlo estremamente minimo), risultante nello svegliarsi la mattina con la gola in fiamme; la posizione della cabina poi, subito accanto all’ingresso del corridoio dall’esterno, risulta essere particolarmente infelice, data la confusione proveniente dagli schianti delle chiusure delle porte di saloni e sala poltrone. Infine, ciliegina sulla torta, la porta della cabina risultava essere piuttosto difettosa, costringendo a doverla sbattere con forza per riuscire a chiuderla.
Salendo di un livello si raggiunge il deck 6, Silver Deck, consistente in cabine, sia passeggeri che equipaggio, con una piccola porzione a poppa scoperta; dalla scalinata principale, tuttavia molto ridotta, si accede poi, unica via, al deck 7, il Master Deck. Quasi interamente scoperto, consiste nel ponte di comando, quindi un’area riparata definita solarium, dotata di plastica antiscivolo e due docce tropicali; tale area risulta molto gradevole, sebbene si senta la mancanza di strutture (sedie, tavolini, bar), quindi, verso poppa, si trova l’eliporto, in un angolo del quale vi sono le gabbie per i cani, purtroppo anch’esse esposte agli elementi.
Veniamo poi ad una regola quasi infallibile, insegnatami tempo fa: “La bella nave si vede dall’ascensore”: se tale regola vale sempre, povera CORAGGIO: l’unica ascensore della nave, piccola e nemmeno troppo elegante, dei sette ponti ne collega appena 3, e tra l’altro, neppure indispensabili: 4, 5 e 6.
Degli altri aspetti del viaggio si può sottolineare che la nave sia eccezionalmente “comoda” da un punto di vista marino: nessuno scossone, niente vibrazioni, pochissimo rollio: forse questa è l’unica caratteristica definibile come “cruise” della nave. Riguardo all’equipaggio, ormai consueto misto italo-greco da quando, gli ellenici, hanno cominciato ad usare navi battenti bandiera italiana per contenere i costi, nulla da eccepire, ristorazione validissima come qualità e, soprattutto, decisamente a prezzi più “digeribili” rispetto gran parte della concorrenza (Minoan Grimaldi in primis).
Come chiudere? Dicendo che al ferry, per essere davvero cruise, manca tanto, forse troppo: senza sconfinare in paragoni, forse fuoriluogo, con le ex “cugine ricche”: credo che con qualche intervento, magari non troppo eccessivo, si potrebbe ampiamente migliorare la nave: penso ad esempio ad aggiungere al Solarium deck un bar ed una piscina o, al limite, degli idromassaggio; quindi al prolungamento, se non di tutti e tre i ponti passeggeri, quantomeno del 5 e del 6 fino alla fine del fumaiolo (che si potrebbe riallocare sopra il ponte 6), aumentando il numero delle cabine, spostando verso poppa la sala poltrone ed utilizzando lo spazio in più per aumentare l’ampiezza di Self Service, Negozio, e magari aggiungendo un secondo bar interno, un angolo per i bambini (decisamente sacrificati, su una nave del genere, ove non c’è neppure una televisione con qualche cartone animato…) o qualcosa come pub/discoteca: credo si prederebbe poco delle caratteristiche funzionali della nave, e si andrebbe a guadagnare molto in versatilità e gradevolezza. Per intanto, invece che “Ferry-Cruise”, io chiamerei la CORAGGIO con quello che è il suo vero nome: “ro-pax”, e nemmeno troppo pax. Ad ANEK che dire? Niente, semplicemente ricordare che in Corea del Sud, ferme, ci sono due navi di loro proprietà. Che io mi muoverei a riportare sulla linea di Venezia.
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